Position: 12 02  N, 148 24 W @17:00 UTC

The morning’s Grib files look good and we’ll keep this wind all day along with our 2.2  metre swell. This is all very good news. We’ll keep our fingers crossed, and keep WW II “rollin the deep”. She has her skirt up,  and tearing across the dance floor at  7.8 knots! NZ here we come!

It is a new day and what better way to start the day than cleaning the galley. It got a real work-over, polished the stove as well. Then came the eggs! It seems some of those little chicks have become like little bombers! Remember the dance hall scene here. On deck is the guy with the fire hose trying to knock me over, down below it’s the punk rocker in his souped-up Chevy equipped with the hydraulic wheel elevators connected to rap music so as the car goes down the road it gyrates to the music. Picture this – I’m trying to sort out the eggs as this guy is watching me and laughing his head off trying to make me drop the eggs.  

It took half an hour at the sink washing each egg and placing it in a separate container as the punk rocker played his tunes all the while trying to knock one of those eggs out of my hand. I washed the old smelly container and dried it out before putting the good eggs back in their fresh carton. Much to my surprise I didn’t lose one egg.  Glenn: 1, Punk Rocker: 0

This all happened because I wanted pancakes and eggs for breakfast. I started to fry the eggs after I had made the batter for the pancakes. To make absolutely sure the egg I chose was going to be OK, I dutifully broke it in a separate container and let it pass the nose test. Four eggs later, the menu changed to pancakes only. I’ll try the eggs another day.

Wandering Albatross

 A group of children in a daycare in the Lower Mainland are curious about sea life in the open ocean. Their teacher writes:  

“We enjoy your trip and wish you well. How much sea life do you see, and what do you see? Thank you and be safe!”

Glenn writes: Hello children. Thank you for your questions and for visiting our blog. You asked about what kinds of wildlife I can see out here in the ocean from my sailboat. Well, there are some very curious and beautiful birds. The largest is the great Wandering Albatross that glides over the waves with its huge wing span of more the 2.5 metres. There are the small and delicate Storm Petrels, about the size of a small pigeon, that flit and dance across the tops of waves looking for food. There are beautiful bright white Tropic Birds with their long thin tails. I have seen Pelicans, Brown Boobys,  and of course Seagulls. 

On the ocean, I’ve seen Right Whales, Dolfin, and Flying Fish which sometimes land on the deck of my boat. There are beautifully coloured Mahi Mahi and Tuna.  And at night when it’s dark, I can see millions of tiny Plankton that light up the sea in flashes as I sail through them. 

So you can see that the ocean is very much alive – above the water, on the surface, and below the surface, if you look.  
Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Heading: 208 true Boat Speed: 6.5 knots Wind: NE 10 – 15 knots Swell:2.2 m Cloud:60% Bar:1011Temp 28 C Miles in last 24 hrs:189

We’re at day’s end here on WW II.  

A large wave has just come through the centre hatch above the table at the base of the mast and boarded us. The hatch has been open all day with not a hint of water on the deck. It’s as if someone deliberately threw a bucket of sea water right down the hatch. The berth on the starboard side is soaked and there is a large puddle on the cabin sole.  In this heat it will dry soon.  

The Intertropical Convergence Zone, or ITCZ, is the region that circles the Earth near the equator, where the trade winds of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres come together.

The next few days and the sea we have to cover are very unique. This is the beginning of the ITCZ Intertropical Zone, a no mans land for the wind. This is where you go from weather influenced by the north to weather influenced by the south, and the transition is often fraught with light and fickle winds. And, this is where you can get trapped for days drifting and in sizzling heat. The first time I transited this mysterious area was on Sannu II in 1997. I did not have the benefit of Grib files so I wallowed for several days chasing every little breeze to make headway at all. Eventually, of course, I made it through but not without suffering mild heat stroke. I lay very still below decks on the cabin sole with a water soaked towel over my naked body. I did this for hours until the night rescued me from the heat and delirium. With that in mind, I come upon the ITZ with some trepidation, based on experience.

I’m  fine with our progress toward the ITZ. My biggest reservation is the size of the waves.  At 2+ metres, if the wind should completely die I would suffer enormously at their hands. With no ‘way’ (forward movement) on, it would be impossible to set any sail at all as the flogging they would take would tear them to shreds and, drive me crazy. You are definitely at the mercy of the wind.

We’ve had a wonderful 10-15 knot breeze off our stern quarter that is filling a single reefed main and a poled-out jib pushing us along at a respectable  6+ knots in a straight line to where the narrowest part of the ITZ. Lat 10 00 North, and Long 150 00 W, that point at this moment is 236 miles down the road, and we are right on it. With our daily runs of 150 to 180 nm, we should be there tomorrow or Thursday .

The boat’s motion at the moment is swinging from 25 degrees to one side to 25 degrees to the other, and rocking forward and aft through 20 degrees – 10 each way so it is a lively ride and I’m thankful for my nav station seat. Typing this on the computer is rather like sitting in the back of your car while your sixteen years old – a wild ride, at speed. I seem to be forever pressing < then delete. It’s dark now so I’m turning on the mast head running lights as well as the nav station lights.

The ham radio sits off to my left. I’m listening to the sound of mariners on the Seafarers Net call out their position to another operator who records their position.

It’s too hot to sleep comfortably below tonight, so I will try and nap as best I can with frequent trips to the cockpit to watch the amazing star filled sky and feel the cool breeze. If things get really lively,  I’ll get Annie Lennox to sing ‘Walking on broken glass’, and I may just have to make some popcorn. 

Position: 13 49 N, 147 20 W @ 19:00 UTC

Hot and muggy here over night so lots of tossing and turning. Good progress though. 

Here’s my morning ritual to get Grib (weather) files from my computer.

I’m up early to download the files so I’m absolutely on top of the weather. Process goes something like this – go to the Grib file drop down map of the world, choose the area you’re interested in, send a request through Winlink as an out going message. Then disconnect that call, wait for a period of time, then through the radio and the modem make another connection with Winlink and if the file is ready, it will download it. Go to your inbox on the computer and open up the file and there it is, in colour. The weather map shows wind, waves, and barometric pressure for the next three days. I can scroll back and forth to decide the best route.

I’m going to send this message, turn on the radio and hook up the modem to the computer and then find a land station that has good propagation and send this message out and hope to receive the Grib files in return.

After that, I’ll make tea and study the weather, then go on deck and change course or adjust the sails as required.

And so it goes every morning.

I have started to hand sew a bag for the lines at the base of the mast that will keep my hands busy for a few days. 

Course 227T Speed 6.6 Wind NE 10-15 kts Waves NE 2.2 metres Cloud: 30% Bar 1011 steady Temp 29C Miles in last 24 hrs: 180 nm

Position: 15 41 N, 145 24 W @20:00 UTC

Week 4  It has dawned another beautiful tropical morning here on board WW II after a very lively night. We made a solid 70 miles in the last twelve hours as a result of a very steady 15+ knot wind that we have been running before for more than three days. I did not make any sail changes last night nor did I sleep very well but …were we moving!

I am expecting a wind shift from the NE to more easterly some time today. When that happens I’ll gybe at that time to take advantage of the shift. Going a little further west this morning so we can avoid some light winds just south of us.

We have about 450 miles to go to get to 10 N, 150 W where the ITCZ (Inter Tropical Convergence Zone) is very narrow and there is enough wind to take us through to the trade winds on the other side.

The library, recording barograph, and bar – starboard side in the main salon on West Wind II

The recording barograph which had stopped working a few days ago is now back up and running and the batten in the main I thought was broken is fully intact. Both good news. 

 Course 260 T Speed 6.7 kt Wind E 10-15 Waves 1.5-2 meters Cloud 50% Temp 28C Bar 1013 Miles in last 24 hrs: 170 kt.miles

Thanks for your comments and questions.    

Read Glenn’s answer to the question about how the equipment and systems are working.

Read Glenn’s answer about hand steering.

Postion: 16. 27 N, 142 45 W

A new day. Listening to Adele singing Rolling in the Deep. Cup of tea, cool tropical breeze funnelling down through the main hatch and across my bare shoulders and down my back. Up very early to take care of M&J (Main and Jib). Flipped them over so we can lay the mark 590 miles over the horizon at 10 N and 150W where the doldrums are very narrow and then out into the tradewinds and South.

I will leave Christmas Island to starboard, then pass through the middle of the Central Line group of Islands leaving Malden Island (Kiribati) to starboard and the Filippo Reef to port. Then head further southwest through the Northern Cook Islands leaving Penrhyn Island to starboard.

Penrhyn Island, Cook Islands

Editor’s Note: Penrhyn is the most far flung of the Cook Islands. It lies 9 degrees below the equator and at 11.2 kms (7 miles) wide and 24.1 kms (15 miles) long, it is the largest atoll in the Group and one of the largest in the Pacific. Early Polynesian settlers called it Tongareva – a name still used to this day meaning “south of the empty space”.  The modern name Penrhyn Island comes from the ship, Lady Penrhyn which passed by the island on 8 August, 1788.

Then on through the Society Islands and the southern Cook Islands. After that I’ll round the south end of the south island of New Zealand and into the Great Southern Ocean!

It was six years ago I left in Kim Chow for our first attempt at sailing around the world west about. That was an amazing day, getting away from the wharf was a very emotional time and the great adventure that lay before me was so unknown. But looking back on it now it was not nearly as risky in my mind as it was when I left single handed from Victoria in May of 1997 in Sannu II a Haida 26, flush deck harbour sailor.

Sannu II sailing to Bora Bora, 1997

My first port of call was the Marquesas Islands that took me 42 days,and then 4500 miles of open ocean. All I had with me was a Garmin hand held GPS and a VHF radio. Those were the most amazing six weeks of sailing I have ever done because it was my first time single handing over such a distance and everything was new. There is nothing quite like the first time! Every trip since has been measured by
that one. 

Speed 5.5 knots Course 38 t Wind NE 10+ Waves NE 1.5 m Clouds 15% Bar 1014 Miles in last 24 hrs: 140 nm

Position:  17 53.1 N, 140 59.0 W

I moved off one chart and on to another today – a milestone worth noting for me. I’m now planning my route south through the Cook Islands towards NZ. 

I made the most amazing lunch today. Fresh cabbage lightly cooked in a little extra virgin olive oil seasoned with a little Tellicherry black pepper and some organic Italian Balsamic Vinegar, a little melted apple wood cheese from Ian and Susan Grant’s private collection along with a Babybel mini gourmet cheese round. Wasca crackers and imported sausage from  Choux Choux. Accompanied by a Blue Bridge Pale Ale. 

We’re doing 7 + knots down wind , about 600 miles east off the Island of Hawaii headed for the equator on the fabulous West Wind II  under the command of seasoned ocean sailor and chef extraordinaire !

Making the most of what I have, and sincerely hope you’re doing the same  

Course: 225 Speed: 6.6 knots Wind: NE 15 Waves: NE 1.5 Cloud: 50 % Bar: 1016 Miles in last 24 hrs: 165 

Position : 20.12  N, 139. 49 W @17:00 UTC

Early afternoon yesterday and last night I had to hand steer for several hours as the wind went light and the vane didn’t have the energy to take the tiller. Sitting in one place for three hours, watching the sun set and the moon rise on a balmy night with just shorts on – not too hard to do.

Nonetheless I was glad the wind increased and happily turned the tiller over to Fleming to let him steer through the moon lit night. I retreated to my bunk for some sleep.

Mags writes:  Will you be posting videos? Would be cool to see some of these storms.:) Stay safe, keep up the great storytelling.

Read Glenn’s response here.

Heading: 145 true Boat Speed: 6.7 knots Wind NE 10 – 15 kn Swell: NW 1 m Cloud Cover: 50% Temp 20 C Miles last 24 hours: 110

 Thank you all for your comments and questions. Keep ’em coming!

Had a tropical down pour this morning that turned West Wind into Spa Pacifica. There were three squalls in the neighbourhood and I got all three in a row. Three weeks is along time to go with out a shower and this one was perfect – not polar but tropical. Did all my laundry – shorts, shirt , socks, tee shirt, and underwear. After that I washed the whole boat inside and out. I had a shave, manicure and pedicure. I topped it off with a gourmet omelette of sausage,onions, shallots, grated cheese, and two farm fresh eggs. 

Then I got to a few ‘must do’ jobs after lunch. One was on the mast. On the trailing edge of the mast where the main sail track is, there was an old gate that was used to take out the cars when taking the main sail off the boom. This is no longer needed since we have a new main and boom with much better method to remove the main sail. The old gate was held in place by a small wire pin that had a “D” shaped head on it so you could pull it up and undo the gate. Unfortunately whenever the main is raised or lowered especially when taking in a reef downwind, it would catch the pin and open the gate and the main sail would be free to come out of its track. This gate is about 8 feet up the mast and in order to rethread the main sail cars back into the track, it means going up the eight feet making it almost impossible to reach the main halyard and put the cars in at the same time. 

Last night the “D” handle on top of the pin broke off. This left the pin free to fall out through the bottom of the gate leaving it permanently open and a nightmare to raise or lower the main. After going up the mast by standing on the main halyard winch, I discovered that the pin was still there. All I had to do was bend over each end so it stays in place – hopefully for a good long while.

The other job was a search and destroy mission – chasing the illusive leaks. These are not the kind that will sink the boat, but the kind that just slowly drive you crazy. Dripping over the nav station on to the charts, or filling a cupboard and damaging valuable stores. This is an on going job that requires patience –  not high on the list of my characteristics, but we try.

Position: 22. 33 N, 139.17 W @16:30 UTC * 

Last night I sat in the cockpit under a canopy of clouds that were backlit by the full moon listening to Sting on the iPod and having my dinner – potatoes, carrots, fried onions, curry sausage, and noodles and one can of  Blue Bridge beer. I tuned into the seafarers net to check my radio strength and it came back “double nickel” from my brothers on the airwaves. I also talked to a boat transiting from Hawaii to Victoria.

My thoughts are about keeping an even pace. Even though West Wind II sails faster than Kim Chow did,  it is a long voyage and in order to make it, I must keep the boat going – all the way. Most nights I shorten sail to be safe. This will probably cost some miles in the short term, but over the next 30,000 miles what counts is the boat making it, not how fast. Slow but sure wins the race.

It’s around 02:30 a.m. and I’ve been on deck for and hour chasing a dying breeze …which I’ve just buried. I’ve now lowered all the sails till a new breeze presents itself. With no sails up, the motion is very pronounced – a drunken sailor comes to mind. The motion is one thing but the noise is quite an other. I’ll try to get some sleep. I’ll need the industrial ear plugs for sure. 

I saw one Flying Fish this morning, no birds. With the cloud cover and light wind, still conserving power. 

Read Glenn’s response to this question ” Glenn would you care to describe wrestling with the spinnaker pole in a rising breeze while single handed on a forty footer? Some of us following your exploits from our couch might not fully appreciate the art, while some of us certainly do! 

Heading: 227 true Boat Speed: 2.1 knots Wind: NE < 5 knots Swell: NE 2 metres Cloud Cover: 80% Barometer: 1000 Temp: 19-20 C

* (UTC is Pacific Daylight Time + 7 hours)

Position: 24. 05 N, 139. 00 W @ 19:00 UTC*

*Note: Time will now be reported in UTC – Universal Time Coordinated (UTC is +7 hours from Pacific Daylight Time (PDT) 

Listen to Glenn’s audio report courtesy of Ron Kolody, ham radio operator in Vancouver.

At 5:30 this morning I lay in my nice warm bunk listening to the main and jib slatting on deck. I got up, found my glasses, put on my shorts and shoes, and my safety harness. The near full moon cast enough light through the cloud cover so I didn’t need my head light. My safety tether has one end clipped through the main (sail) traveller line, just outside the companion way.  The other end lies ready to hook to my harness. I take the first two steps up the companionway, grab the snap shackle and clip it on my harness.This is now a routine. 
(Editor’s note: Glad to hear it!) 

The wind had definitely lightened up with the two reefs in the main and the jib rolled in deeply.  The wind was coming aft of the port quarter, maybe 5 – 10 knots, the sea was running about a metre to a metre and a half. I got the first reef out with not much trouble and rolled out the jib as well. I realized we were slightly off course. Each time I adjust the sails, the wind vane and course usually need to be adjusted as well. 

The wind has been very fickle, first very light, then blowing up to 20 knots, then back down again. In an effort to keep going and stop the sails from being damaged, I’ve tried hard to keep a happy ship, but the wind and seaway have run me ragged.

This morning we were sailing off the wind and the wind was rising (which makes reefing very difficult as the sail is jammed up against the shrouds) and I got the reefing lines jammed. I found it difficult to get the main up or down. In order to free the reefing line which had jumped in the shiv in the boom at the goose neck I had to thread the reefing line back up the boom and then put it on the main halyard winch to get it unjammed then rethread it back down the the goose neck making sure it got back on its shiv properly. All this while the wind was rising and some guy was throwing buckets of water over my head!  

It’s now 9:30 a.m. and throughout this whole time I have been up and down on deck taking sail in, letting it out. I’m beat and ready for a bowl of porridge.

Heading: 210 True Boat speed: 4 knots Wind: NE 5-10 Knots Cloud cover: 100% Waves: NE 1.5 metres Distance last 24 hr:150 nm

Updated position at 0:3:45 UTC    23. 22 N, 129. 13 W  

 26 29.3 N, 137 52.7 W @ 10:20 PDT

Going like a train this morning. The wind shifted numerous times over night and there were some strong squalls and intense rain. I was up many times trimming sails and readjusting the vane. We’re on port tack so I’m sleeping in the starboard bunk which is a little wider than the port bunk. Really  enjoying that. Wind generator is putting out lots of power.

I’m now in a new time zone. Ship’s time is back one hour.  My time is ‘Plus Zulu’ or 9 hrs plus GMT. It is 7:43 local and 16:43 Zulu or GMT.
I’m feeling tired today so will try catch up on sleep this morning. I’m feeling like this could be a wash day today although it’s a little rough.

Going now to make a pot of tea. 

Heading: 182 true, Boat Speed: 6.7 knots, Wind: NE 15 knots, Swell n 1.5 metres, Cloud Cover 50% Temperature: 20 C Miles in last 24 hrs: 150

 27 53.1 N, 136.49 W @ 12:00 PDT

Currently sailing wing-on-wing with a double reefed main at 6 knots. Wind is 15 knots from the North, waves are 1.5 metres from the Northwest. Temperature is 25 C with 80% overcast sky.

An example of sailing wing-on-wing

A container ship ‘Horizon Passage’ from San Diego bound for Hawaii came up my port side at 20 knots around 9:30 this morning. I spoke with the crew on the bridge who told me I showed up well on their radar.  

The hurricane currently in the Gulf of Mexico is not affecting me directly, although this is definitely hurricane season. The season starts around Nov 1st in the South Pacific, and will be present when I pass western Australia and the east coast of Africa. I was affected by a cyclone off the south east coast of Africa on my last trip, but not badly. Weather routing for a west about circumnavigation from the west coast of North America is definitely challenging when you take in to account all the weather anomalies, and rounding Cape Horn.

I believe we’ve made a good start and have to meet each one of those circumstances as they present themselves.

I took a rather good blow to the head today from the spinnaker pole. Not to worry all is well. I went to the first aid station and the doctor told me I would be fine, just put ice on it for a few days. No stitches, just a band aid. 

27 57.9 N, 136 31.7 W @10:20 PDT

Week 3

Dark Blue Sea

Dark blue sea rippled by a 10-knot warm SW breeze

Aero Gen 4 silently making hydro

West Wind II like a race horse sliding gently but purposefully over a two meter beam sea

Another plastic fish float anchored by its growing community of hitchhiking sea creatures, floating by

The Fleming vane guided by the wind gently but firmly tugs WW II’s helm to keep her on a mutually agreed upon course close to the wind

The Furuno cockpit remote GPS reads a steady 5.7 knots and a course of 236 True

The BP solar panels are still in the shadow of the main and jib but are filling the volt bank nonetheless

Clouds like a Second World War II convey are lined up, escorted across the western horizon, grey against the billowing white

No inflated parade characters, only a soft break between sea and sky

The motion aboard is in tune with the waves, or is it vice versa

A hobby horse ride, smooth, tickling the stomach 

The reins are free and she goes fast, steadily paces ahead towards the equator

Not a finish line but a start line to the romantic South Pacific and eventually the rigours of the great Southern Ocean

Where I will once again pit my trusty steed and courage against its formidable forces that once brought me to my knees six years ago

I am the master of my fate and I am back, God willing.

Monday’s  Update

We are still in very light wind (less than 10 knots) and it’s difficult to maintain a course to 140W where there is more wind. The wind is coming from the NW and with it a large running sea which shakes what little wind I have out of the sails and creates an earth shattering shudder. I hope to get to the stronger breeze some time later to day.

Surprisingly, I had to replace one of the steering lines from the Fleming to the tiller. Two weeks is not long for a line to chafe through. I’ve had my eye on it for over a week. Before it started to get dark last night I switched to a much more robust line with the hope it will last longer.

One surprising difference on this voyage is the distinct lack of bird sightings. In the last week I have seen more fish than birds. In the fading light of dusk last evening, I saw a small Storm Petrel dancing over the waves. Last week I was visited by a Wandering Albatross and a bright white Tropic bird but they have not returned.

Heading 262 true, Boat Speed 6.3 knots, Wind NW 12 – 15 knots, Swell: NW 1.5 m, 0.7 m chop Temp: 23 C Cloud Cover 65% 
Barometer: 1000 and steady.

Welcome aboard new subscribers!  

28 22.1 N, 134 40.7 W @ 12:00 PDT

It’s a beautiful day, the wind is light, maybe 10 knots.  The wind and waves are at very awkward angles today. To make my best course I would like to run down wind but because the waves are off the stern quarter WW II wants to cork screw and there is not enough wind in the sails to stop them slatting rather vigorously. When they  do it feels like the rig is going to fall down so I have made a compromise. I’m heading up a little away from my best course to stop the mast from being shaken out of the boat. If conditions change later, I will head back on course later no big deal. Just “No shaking please”.

Course heading: 258 true, Speed over Ground (SoG) 5.2 knots, Wind: NW 10 knots, Sky: Sunny, with sheep clouds, Miles in last 24 hrs: 110.

Started a new book today written by Stanley Evans called Seaweed On The Street. Thank you Stan. I am loving the book being set in Victoria. My imagination is totally engaged with all the local place names and references.

I realized today while taking care of the eggs that Cathy (Christopher) has put little hand written messages on some of the egg cartoons! I am so touched by her amazing sensitivity and thoughtfulness. Thank you Cathy.

Check out the Comments Section of the blog to read Glenn’s answers to questions from followers.
Please note:  While it appears that the answers are from me, MaryLou (that’s because the blog is registered in my name), the answers are truly and authentically from Glenn. 

30 11.37 N, 132’56.01 W @0:7:44 PDT

The early morning sun silhouettes a parade of over-sized balloon cloud characters that the west wind has filled in through the night.

There are some familiar shapes – huge squirrels, an elephant, and many fat snakes – some flat, some grotesquely coiled around prehistoric beasts on three legs, weird faces of men with huge noses, ears with amazing hair dos, puffed out cheeks and cigars. The figures are ever changing so slowly, almost imperceptibly, till some vanish all together. Then there’s a star wars space ship. Eventually the ruby red back drop turns to light blue and the parade washes to clouds. The sunrise parade is over and a new day starts.

West Wind II has sailed herself through the night while I slept with a gentle rocking motion and a sea breeze from the open hatch above to keep me cool.

Caught snoozing circa 2012.

It has dawned a beautiful morning with very light breezes that WW II has turned into 3.5 to 4.5 knots. Our course is still southerly 162′ true. e Ware currently sailing at 30 11,37′ North Lat and 132’56.01′ West longitude.  During the night we made good about 40 miles. The wind usually picks up in the morning so all in all a great day ahead.